Oiling is my absolute favourite DIY job ever. We will finish off the window sills with no sheen polyurethane because this is very resistive to hot coffee cups and doesn’t detract from the overall look of the window. Three coats and it is water resistant to a degree. It helps feed the wood but also protect it too. We love Danish Oil and use for all sorts of wooden surfaces (including wooden floorboards in 2 x test rooms, and cedar panel doors). Two coats should do the trick (allow to dry between each coat). Regardless, after our sanding and brushing off the dust, we finished off with #000grade wire wool to get it ‘oil ready’.
Fatest way to remove window putty windows#
We choose to Danish Oil the windows instead which is a forgiving matt finish and doesn’t require high level of smooth surfacing. If you want to polyurethane the windows you’ll want to work down through the grades making the wood as smooth as possible. Just because a pot says rimu doesn’t mean it’s the colour of all rimu! You may find in patches a completely different colour works best.įinishing Sanding: Smooth off wooden surfaces with a 120 grit sandpaper, depending on what finish you want. Ebony, walnut, rimu and pine colour tones are available. Fill holes with the closest colour-matched Timbermate, wipe off with a damp cloth, then lightly sand. We use a hand held modelling drill (a rotary tool, a Dremel 200) which has a round fine stone head to remove paint and old caulk from holes. If you are looking for perfection you’d need to remove each window, remove glass and putty and have each window strip-dipped (a process where the entire window is lowered into a vat of strong chemicals to dissolve paint).įiller: There may be stubborn areas where nail holes have been filled with paint, or gouges have been created through wear and tear. There comes a point that you just need to accept that what you are doing is clearly not going to be a perfect brand new window. Patience: Odds are you won’t get every last bit of paint off. The closer you get to the glass, trade in the electric sander for small sections of regular sandpaper to undertake painful sections of intricate sanding. Using 80 grit paper for stubborn areas in-ground remaining paint should come off effortlessly. Sanding: When you think you are ‘almost there’ get out the electric sander. Be sure not to scratch the glass itself as it is susceptible to marks that will cost plenty to either remove the scratch, or the whole pane will need to be replaced for aesthetic reasons. Several sizes and shapes of paint scrapers: from a flat 1 inch wide blade for the bulk of the work, to curved and pointed blades for difficult areas. Stripping Tools: Getting into corners takes patience. It can only do so much! A thin layer at a time and a sharp tool will get the majority of the job done. Don’t feel the need to apply thick layers of stripper with your paint brush. You’ll need stripper and stripping tools. The cheap stuff doesn’t always return the best result. Obvious as it may seem, it can get a bit tricky. Paint Stripper: First things first, you have to remove the paint. There may be numerous nail holes, rot and even borer damage. On closer inspection, each window may not have the same intricate design work, requiring a different approach to paint removal from a variety of challenging nooks and crannies. Be prepared for rimu frames and cedar windows (or vice versa) of varying colours from very dark chocolate through to a light cream. You don’t know what’s under all that paint! Window frames may not always be matching twin sets. Any words of advice we can pass on?īe ready for anything. Still, if you are looking to achieve the same original bungalow qualities we’d highly recommend you do.
Getting there takes hours upon hours of hard work. OK ‘joy’ may be something reserved for the finished result. One joy has been stripping off 90 years worth of paint to reveal native wood timber window frames and sills. We’re well into half of the house renovations. Sure the bathroom has a flushing loo and the kitchen has a ceramic cook top but the essence of the original wooden floors, tall skirting boards, high ceilings, exposed beams and wooden window frames are our interpretation of how things once were. We are deep into renovations and very happy to say we’re reinstating its original 1920’s glory rather than modernising it beyond recognition. We have a wonderfully humble little bungalow we call home.
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